How to make a repeat pattern

In this post, I want to show how I create a linocut which can be put together to form a repeat pattern.  This kind of linocut needs to work in design terms both on it's own, or as part of a repeat pattern. I'm going to go through the design process for the first ever repeat pattern I produced, my dachshunds.

Dachsund linocut - repeat pattern

1.  Firstly, you have to choose the element(s) which will form the corners and edges of your linocut.  You will be cutting these into 4, so you will need to think about how these will look once they have been cut into sections.  Do you want the sections to look fairly abstract or still recognisable?  For me, this is the best bit of creating a repeat pattern – the challenge of cutting your subject matter up and making decisions as to how you want these parts to look.  Here's the dachshund which will form my corners.

Step 1 - Decide on image which will form borders and corners

2.  Cut it into four.

Step 2 - Cut into four

3.  Label them.

Step 3 - Label the sections

4.  Arrange these quarters as shown.  It is important that they are laid out in this sequence so they match up when the final print is grouped with other prints, they match up.

Step 4 - Arrange the sections into corners/edges

5.  Compose the remainder of your linocut around these corner and edge elements.  

Step 5 - Design the rest of your linocut around these sections

6.  Make sure the linocut looks balanced, both as a single piece and as a repeat pattern.  To do this, you will need to be aware of the amount of background space in your print.

Single dachshund linocut print

Dachshund linocut print as repeat pattern

Here is the same process for the hen design I created for Gloagburn Farm.

Step 1 - Drawings of hens which will form edges

1.  I started with drawings of the two hens I knew I wanted to cut up to form the edges of the design.

Step 2 - Hens cut into sections and placed along edges

2.  I cut these into sections and moved these into the correct place.  I wanted to make them look a bit more natural than the dachshunds, as though it was a cross section of a flock of chickens, so I placed them along the edges rather than quartering them and putting them in the corners.

Step 3 - Filling in the rest of the hen design

 3.  I created the rest of the design around these elements.  I tried to show the hens in a variety of poses, and made sure that their sizes were consistent.

Single hen linocut print

4.  The finished linocut as a single print.  Again, you have to be aware of the solid areas and the unfilled background, both as a single print....

Hen linocut print as repeat pattern

5.  ...and as a repeat.  You need to make sure it works both as a single print and as a repeat pattern.

Hope you enjoy experimenting with repeat patterns!

How to Make a Linocut

This post will give you instructions on how to make a linocut - I'll show you step by step how I produced my 'Rabbits at Home' linocut.   Happy linocutting!

Rabbit Linocut

1.     Sketch out your design.  Take into account practical matters, such as the dimensions of your paper – the rabbits, for example, are standard postcard size.  Be mindful of contrasting black and white areas, and textured versus plain areas.  Try to achieve a good balance between these.

2. Tracing. Trace your design using a dark pencil.

3. Transfer your design. Turn the tracing paper over and place it onto your lino. Tape your lino into place with masking tape to ensure nothing shifts while you’re transferring it. If it shifts, you will never be able to match it up again.



4. Highlight your Design. Go over your pencil lines with a waterproof marker such as a ‘Sharpie’ marker.

5. How to Cut. The important thing to remember is that that the areas your remove from the lino will not print. What you leave behind will be printed up. This means that you have to think in reverse. Be very careful not to over-cut and remove too much lino. This makes it flat and uninteresting. Also, avoid cutting through any important inter-connecting lines. On the finished print, you’ll see that I accidentally cut off one of the sleeping rabbit’s ears where it joins onto the head!

6.  Cut out your Design.  Cut out the main subject first.  Carefully go round the outside and inside lines of the design first.  Then cut out the inner part, creating texture and contrast as you go.  Use small tools on detailed areas, larger tools to clear large parts.

7.  Check your Progress.  One useful way of checking your progress is to use a bingo marker.  Colour the area you have just been cutting, lay a scrap sheet of paper on top, and take rubbing with an old spoon or your fist.

8.  Prepare your Inks.  With your design cut out, you’re now ready to print!  Prepare your inks.  Make sure you have enough of the colour you are using for the size of your print run.  Roll out a thin film of ink.

9.  Ink up your lino.  Roll the roller through the film of ink one way until it is loaded with ink.  Roll it onto the lino one way.  Make sure the lino has a thin sticky film of ink all over it.

10. Print your Linocut.  If using a press:  slot your lino into place on a registration board.  Carefully lay your paper over the lino.  Place packing materials (such as newspaper and card) on top and roll the press over.  You may need to experiment until you get the pressure correct.  If hand-printing:  slot your lino into place on a registration board and carefully lay your paper over the lino.  Burnish it by rubbing the back of the paper with a spoon.

11. The Great Reveal.  It’s time for the great reveal!  Slowly lift the paper up from one corner.  If the ink is patchy, carefully replace the paper and have another go with the press/spoon.

12. Blot Print.  Using tissue or scrap paper, blot the print to remove any excess ink.  Hang it up to dry.  Edition your prints.  If you print 10, number each one as being a series of 10 – e.g. 1/10, 2/10…10/10.

13. THE FINISHED PRINT!  Ta da .....

Finished 'Rabbits at Home' linocut

Tour of my Tool Kit

My tool kit is brilliant!  It was a gift from Mum and Dad is one of the best presents I've ever been given.  It was made by Scott Exeley Leathers out at Arthurstone near Meigle.  It's very cleverly designed, with a slot for each tool, and rolls up neatly.  It protects my tools, and when each slot is full, I am confident I have everything with me I need to create a linocut.

You can buy a very cheap lino cutting handle and individual tool heads you can screw into the handle - such as the red handled tool below.  However, I would strongly recommend buying 'Swiss cutting tools' - the wooden handled tools below - available from Intaglio Printmakers.  I have been amazed at the range of cuts you can make every time I’ve bought a new tool.It’s very true that a crafts person is only as good as their tools.

Once you’ve bought your tools, you also need to buy a leather strop and some honing paste to keep your tools sharp.  It’s really important to sharpen your tools every time before you start cutting and about once an hour while you’re creating your lino cut.



I keep other equipment in my tool kit - tools for cutting, and pencils and pens for laying out the designs.

 

If you're interested in doing a workshop or seeing my prints, have a look at http://www.threebearsprints.com/ or https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/ThreeBearsPrints?ref=si_shop.

The Double Line Technique

You can also use what I call the ‘double line’ technique. This is where you use your tool to draw an inner outline to a shape. This helps to delineate and emphasise the features and structure of the shape. 

In a Christmas card I produced of Max, our black Patterdale terrier, you can see the use of this technique clearly .  Below is the both the linocut and a print of the whole card.




Linocut of Christmas Patterdale card

Print of Linocut of Christmas Patterdale

Let's take a closer look at the double line technique by focusing on the panel of Max and Santa looking at each other.  On the right, you can see how this linocut would have looked if I’d just used a single line to render his features.  To me this version looks flat, boring and too simple.  The version on the left is much more clearly delineated.




The same panel, but comparing the use of the single and 'double line' technique.

This is an especially useful technique as it means you can add detail and shape to an otherwise solid coloured area. You need to be aware of the overall, outer shape of the area and the inner shapes which you need to outline which make up this area.



Fragmented Santa!  The continuous line around his body has been broken up.

Make sure your inner lines do not breach your outer line at all.  Keep them at least 1-2mm away from the edge of the shape.  If you take them right to the edge, you will fragment your linocut into little bits, and you will lose the sense and structure of what you are trying to illustrate. Look at Santa above - I've extended all the internal lines and broken through his outline. This has separated the different parts of his body and they now appear to be floating about!

Like to see some Christmas Art Prints for sale?  Have a look at:
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/113758489/mice-decorating-christmas-tree
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/169879100/christmas-mouse-art-archival-digital?ref=shop_home_feat
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/169890653/christmas-bear-art-archival-digital?ref=shop_home_feat

The Continuous Line Technique

I  have a rule that all my lines be continuous in order to preserve the integrity of the subject matter. Where they join other lines, I am careful to keep all the lines intact. So for example, you can see in the linocut and print of the Burmese cat below, all the lines are continous.

One continuous cut all the way round the cat.

At the tail, for example, none of the lines which meet are cut -
the tail is very much connected to the body.

This technique helps to make different parts of a design stand out.  Take my Christmas card design of mice decorating a tree.

Christmas tree mice

If you take a closer look, you will see that each of the mice are defined by a continuous line, so that they stand out from the background of the tree and the snowflakes.

Each mouse is defined by a continuous line all the way round.

Like these prints?  Have a look at:

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/113758489/mice-decorating-christmas-tree?ref=listing-shop-header-0

https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/80579934/burmese-cat-art-handmade-linocut-print?ref=shop_home_active





White or Black Lines?

The creation of lines is very important, and you need to give some thought to this prior to hacking gaily into your lino!  First of all, there is the basic decision of whether you want to use your lino tool simply to create a white line on coloured background - see the example below by one of my workshop participants.

Fantastic linocut of a cone created by a
workshop participant at the Birnam Institute.

The alternative is to use your linocutting tool to create a black line by clearing the lino out from either side of the line and leaving the lino raised, which means it will take on the ink.  On the whole, this is the approach I favour.   

The linocut and the print below demonstrates both techniques.  The lettering is created by using the tool to 'write' the letters directly - so it turns out as a white line on a dark background.  The mice have been created by using the tool to scoop out the internal part of each mouse and the area around each mouse - but leaving the outlines intact.

The original linocut showing the techniques for creating both black and white lines ...

...and the print of the linocut.  Clear white lettering and bold black outlines for the mice.

In creating an outline, you must be careful not to over cut and make your line too thin as this leads to a weak, uninteresting print.  In the example of the Daddy Bear designs below, you can see that the second version is much stronger as the external lines of Daddy Bear are much thicker.  He has a much more defined shape, particularly in comparison to the first print.

Unclear linocut design, where the outlines are too thin and ill-defined

Successful linocut design, with thicker lines creating better definition of the subject

Like these prints?  Have a look at:
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/113759283/mouse-art-handmade-christmas-linocut?ref=shop_home_active
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/113757696/bear-art-three-bears-and-goldilocks?ref=shop_home_active

Areas of Contrast in One Colour Linocuts

When planning your linocut, one of the first things you will need to consider is creating areas of contrast: solid colour vs blank areas; and plain vs. textured areas.

Plain vs textured

Blank vs solid

You should try to seek achieve a balance between these.  The dachshunds print below is a good lesson in achieving a balance of contrast between solid colour and blank areas. 

Linocut demonstrating good balance of solid vs blank areas.

The badger print illustrates a harmonious balance between textured, solid and plain areas.














Badger print illustrates successful balance of solid, plain and textured areas.

Have a look at the design below of Daddy Bear using the printing press.

In this first print, the details of Daddy Bear are lost in an area which is too textured.  Texture dominates the print with too small an area of solid colour.

This second linocut is much more successful.  Daddy Bear is seen from a different angle.  Although the coat is still textured, the new pose opens up more opportunities for creating contrast.  The press occupies a greater area of the linocut.  As it is a solid area, it acts as a better background to Daddy Bear, and allows him to stand out more. Finally, the background is plain which works much better than the textured background in the linocut above.